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Thursday, June 9, 2022

Budapest Food Tour - Part 1: Central Market

The exterior of the 1897 building that contains the great hall of the central market. The colored tiles of the roof are very traditional of this period in Budapest  and samples can be purchased at local shops.
 
Main Hall of Budapest Central Market Hall

We spent seven days and seven nights in Budapest, Hungary in June, 2022. Food is always a big part of our travel experience in a new place. Foods can say so much about a place, it's culture and it's people. Smells and tastes also create lasting memories that can be linked to a particularly sweet memory or idyllic moment in time. One place we always try to visit when traveling is the town's central market place. We made a point to visit the Budapest Central Market Hall before our food tour to get familiar with the local gastronomy. The Budapest Central Market was built in 1897. These food markets provide a great overview of what kinds of food you'll find in the town, what their specialty foods are, and what grows fresh in the region. 

A typical meat market vendor at the Central Hall. There are so many varieties of local Hungarian sausages which are marked with the colors of the Hungarian flag, however these are the same colors as the Italian flag, so if you are shopping in an international market, they can easily be mistaken.

Traditionally, Hungarian food was mostly meats and pickled vegetables. Meats were either dried, smoked or canned for preservation before refrigeration. Vegetables of the region were also either dried (paprika) or pickled for preservation. These traditional preservation processes became a good part of the local cuisine.

Colorful fresh local fruits and vegetables can be found when they are in season. Some of these are obviously imported from warmer regions or when off-season.

Fresh Hungarian peppers (paprika).

Fresh Hungarian Truffles. Many French chefs were employed by the elite of historic Budapest and brought many French cooking techniques and ingredients with them. The cost of 200HUF/gram translates to about $14 per ounce. Quite a bit less than French Truffles.

Celery Root, Carrots and Parsley Roots.

The dried garlic and peppers (paprika) available at one of the vendors shops. The price shown for one string (1500 HUF) is about $3.75.

Modern cooking has created a higher demand for fresh fruits and vegetables. A wide variety are available at the Central Market Hall.

Local dried paprika packaged as gift packs for the tourists. There are four main varieties: Sweet, Hot, Smokey-sweet and Smokey-hot. Only products grown and processed in Hungary are permitted to be called 'Paprika'.

Sweet Paprika packet from the grocery store.

Use Google Image Translate to get an idea of what the labels say.

Dried Paprika is a staple of Hungarian cooking. Many brands and varieties are available at the markets or grocery stores. It's a good idea to use Google Image Translate to help with reading the labels. 

Hungarian pasta varieties. 

These dried pasta varieties are somewhat unique to Hungary since they are quite small and delicate and are frequently used in cooking goulash.

Artisan chocolates at the market.

Stühmer Chocolates. A premium chocolate brand from Hungary.

Excellent chocolate is available at the market. There seems to be a trend toward this variety with dried fruit on top.


Not so many cheese mongers are at the market. Cheese is not very traditional for Hungarian cuisine but is gaining popularity. 

"Hungarian Saffron" is technically not saffron at all. It has almost no taste, but a weak coloring effect on food or sauces. It's not really bargain at about $0.25/gram.


Beware that when you see "Hungarian Saffron" as it is not actually saffron from the crocus flower as you might get from the middle east or Spain.  It is made from the safflower plant and is used in traditional Hungarian cooking to impart color. It does not have much flavor and it takes substantially more of it to impart the color.

  Fresh goose and duck liver is a delicacy since it is usually canned.

Canned Goose Liver, Foie Gras and Duck Liver. $13 to $17.50 per can.

Hungarian Duck liver and Goose liver.

Smoked Pigs Feet. (Literally translates to "dirty legs")

Unusual sausages: Donkey meat and Horse meat.  Pay a premium for Donkey.

Fresh Chicken Feet.  I've had these at a Chinese restaurant, but not Hungarian.

Foie Gras, Goose Liver and Duck Liver are very popular in Hungary. They are available fresh or canned.  Some other unusual meats can also be found at the market. Nothing goes to waste.

If you ever have the chance to visit Budapest, even as a stop-over on a river cruise, I would recommend a visit to the market. It's an easy walk from the Danube where the river boats dock. Upstairs you will find a wide variety of local trinkets and souvenirs. There are also a few restaurants on the upper floor. We tried one of them and it was delicious. 

-David 

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